Transformation

Bülowstraße Station

A yellow train is leaving the Bülowstraße station, to the right is a street with cars and cyclists.

Bülowstraße Station, 2023.

The elevated Bülowstraße Station with the lettering Turkish Bazaar, tracks and historic streetcar behind a street intersection with bicycle traffic, foot traffic and cars.

Turkish Bazaar, May 1981.

BÜLOWSTRAßE STATION

From the outskirts to the centre of the capital

Since 1980, Bülowstraße Station was the meeting point for migrants of Turkish descent in West Berlin. The fall of the Wall and reunification changed the area significantly. Today, Bülowstraße with its galleries and art museums is located in the centre of Berlin.

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His lips were painted bright red, his eyes traced with black kohl. He wore a black suit with sequins and a red bow tie. Hatay Engin stood on the stage of the remodelled Bülowstraße Station and sang with passion old Ottoman songs. It was a very normal Saturday evening at the Turkish Bazaar in 1990. It was full, loud and the mood was upbeat. People sang, danced, laughed and raised their glasses. Since September 1980, the disused train station had been the most important meeting point for the Turkish community in West Berlin. The music in the Turkish Bazaar was for many a piece of home in a foreign country. Just like the Turkish food, the jewellers, the record stores and the small tea rooms.

In August 1961, the Berlin Wall prevented people from the GDR from working in West Berlin companies overnight. Their jobs were subsequently taken over by numerous so-called guest workers, mainly from Turkey. The construction of the Wall also cut rail connections from West to East. Bülowstraße Station was closed down and stood empty. A fair on the elevated railway line was supposed to revitalize the area, but it was the project of the clever Turkish businessman Atalay Özcakir that was successful. In September 1980, he opened the Turkish Bazaar.

Then, once again, it was the Wall that changed the lives of the Turkish community. After its fall in the autumn of 1989, more and more jobs in industry were cut. This affected the migrant population in particular. They had to reorient themselves in reunified Germany. For many, self-employment was the way out of sudden unemployment. They opened supermarkets, restaurants, stores. They used the new opportunities and the short distances to East Berlin to be successful there as well, like Izzet Aydogdu. A self-constructed food truck in front of the Oranienburger Tor made the social worker from Kreuzberg, who is of Turkish origin, rich for a short time. But Izzet Aydogdu had to fight hard for his success. Two days after the food truck was opened, it was set on fire and burned down by Neonazis. The Turkish community had already been exposed to racism in West Berlin and the Federal Republic. But in the 1990s, acts of violence and attacks increased significantly. Aydogdu did not let that discourage him and continued. Others questioned whether they still belonged to the country they lived in. A discussion about racism, identity and belonging emerged. Subsequently, memories from diverse perspectives and the confrontation with one’s own migrant family history played a bigger role in films, plays and music.

Since November 1993, trains have been operating again where Turkish music had filled the air for thirteen years. Bülowstraße Station once again connects East and West. The many graffiti and galleries are visible from the platform of the train station. Today, tourists from all over the world come to the hip neighbourhood to party. The once unrenovated houses near the Wall are shining again and are in high demand. Migrants of Turkish descent still shape the neighbourhood. The children and grandchildren of the generation that celebrated in the Turkish Bazaar are naturally part of the centre of Berlin today.

BÜLOWSTRAßE STATION

Contemporary Witnesses Report

The closed down Bülowstraße Station was an important meeting point for the Turkish community in West Berlin. The music restaurant of the Turkish Bazaar was the largest and most popular of its kind in the Federal Republic. Musicians who performed there share their memories.

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Intro
Nihat Yarsaloglu performed with enthusiasm at the music restaurant.
Cavidan Ünal raves about the women at the Bazaar.
Dede Deli was surprised by the sudden end of the Bazaar.
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Bülowstraße Station

The Turkish Bazaar opened in 1980 in the disused Art Nouveau Bülowstraße Station. It was the meeting place for migrants of Turkish origin from West Berlin. Here they were able to satisfy their longing for their old homeland. In the Turkish Bazaar there were jewellers, tea rooms and supermarkets. But above all, there was music. Well-known musicians performed there and brought impulses from West Berlin to the Turkish music scene.

CONTEMPORARY WITNESS

Nihat Yarsaloglu

The musician Nihat Yarsaloglu performed in the music restaurant in the Turkish Bazaar in the 1980s and 1990s. He often performed with his band all night long until the next morning. For him, the music restaurant and the Turkish Bazaar were a very special place.

"This place was full of shops. You went up the stairs to the left and right, in the middle there was a Kebab shop. Then on the left and right there were jewellers, hairdressers, video stores. One half of this station was stores, the other half was the Turkish Bazaar. And a music restaurant. It was the most beautiful music restaurant in Berlin, even in Germany. I performed a lot in the West, I have not seen a music restaurant like this before."

CONTEMPORARY WITNESS

Cavidan Ünal

The singer Cavidan Ünal raves about the Turkish Bazaar in Berlin. She had toured through the Federal Republic and performed in many Turkish music restaurants. But the mood in Berlin was different – also because of the women.

"It was one of the main places to go for Turks. As its name suggests, a bazaar, stores, jewellery stores, Kebap shops. You could buy anything you could think of there. There were three stores that sold video and audio cassettes. It was always packed there. We also had a barber shop. It was a wonderful place. You can’t really describe it with words. It was an experience. If you were bored, you went there for two hours, did your shopping, strolled, had a coffee or tea. The merchants there were very approachable. You could always have a conversation. I’ve been to all the cities in Europe and Germany. Berlin is obviously different. That’s because there are more Turks here. Here in Berlin there is a biscuit factory, a chocolate factory and a factory for cameras. Only women worked there. There were women here who had proven their independence. When 100 men would come to party on the weekend, just as many women would come. They come, have a good time and leave. That’s the scene here. I have not experienced that in the West."

CONTEMPORARY WITNESS

Dede Deli

The musician Dede Deli shared the stage with famous musicians from Turkey. The music restaurant attracted many visitors also from outside of Berlin. For him, the end of the Turkish Bazaar came very sudden.

"Atalay Özcakir was in the music and film scene in Turkey. He founded the Turkish Bazaar. He worked a lot for it. Stores were opened, jewellery stores, video stores. It became a large shopping mall and it also became very beautiful. There was a lot of interest. People came from the West. Famous artists performed here. Who didn’t ... . The end of the music restaurant scene came suddenly. The Turkish Bazaar was world famous. It was closed when the Wall fell. Then they said, this is an old subway station, the train is running again. Then they turned it into a subway station again, Bülowstraße Station."

Close Memories

BÜLOWSTRAßE STATION

Places Nearby

Discover additional places related to Revolution, Unity and Transformation nearby. The sites on the map are less than 2 kilometres away. Continue exploring Berlin.

Address

Bülowstraße
10783 Berlin

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